Ancient sights in Cádiz

Is anywhere in Andalusia more underrated than Cadiz? The ancient port town, studded with more than 100 watchtower-like minarets, has its share of heavyweight culture. There are museums, a Roman theatre, a trio of Goyas in an oratory and an El Greco in the cathedral. 

But Cadiz’s true appeal is itself. Merchants’ houses in its labyrinth of alleys crosshatching a peninsula are more evocative of 18th-century glory days than any museum display. In La Viña district you’ll discover traditional fish restaurants and brilliant, simple tapas joints like Taberna Casa Manteca (Rick Stein is a fan). The whole place sparkles with African light. 

There are even beaches. Handsome, friendly, definitively lived-in, Cadiz should be better known. There’s one catch – even Spaniards struggle with the local accent.

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